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So it’s somewhat surprising to learn that a year after the publication of the Forum Letter and the Rewiring Fashion proposal, which proposed, among other things, a two-season fashion schedule, in-season delivery dates, delayed discounting periods, and a shift to a see-now-buy-now Fashion Week schedule, designers like Dries Van Noten and Joseph Altuzarra are still thrilled to be thinking about the structural elements of the fashion business. “I think we helped a lot of people to understand what was wrong—and I think there is clearly an evolution visible,” Van Noten says on Zoom. “It was always a little bit ridiculous that everybody was looking at each other as competitors. It is interesting to see that this mentality has changed in such a positive way.”
The conversations first took form in March and April 2020, when Van Noten and Amed independently found themselves on the receiving end of messages from designers, retailers, and friends looking for advice. Van Noten’s camp met every Thursday on Zoom. Amed organized biweekly calls. “I think at the high point there were something like 70 or 80 people from all around the world who had joined these Zoom calls that we were doing twice a week,” Amed says. “It was something that grew very organically—and I hadn’t really appreciated how much time it was going to take.”
The Rewiring Fashion talks now take place quarterly, uniting a global fashion scene of mostly mostly independent stores and brands, from Kirna Zabête and Ikram to Alyx and Adam Lippes. “That community of 80-plus designers is the truest collaboration of the fashion industry,” says Wen Zhou, the CEO and cofounder of 3.1 Phillip Lim, who was part of Rewiring Fashion’s founding committee. “The people that are on those calls are genuinely interested to learn about your challenges and provide support. It’s easy to see us as competitors, but at the end of the day we are one humankind and one community.”
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